RUBINA’S RADAR | MAKING FASHION HISTORY IN OLD DELHI AND CALCUTTA IN THE NEW YEAR 2019

The first week of 2019 kicked off with Indian fashion making historical moves on, and off, the runway on heritage sites. The formidable collaboration of the Ministry Of Textiles Government Of India, the Archaeological Survey Of India, the Ministry Of Culture and the Fashion Design Council Of India, created fashion history with Artisan Speak, a show that celebrated India’s majestic textile legacy at the Red Fort in New Delhi on January 5. The Red Fort grounds as a fashion runway was unimaginable, till it was the past Saturday. And, what a progressive first it was!

Headlined by designers Anita Dongre, Rohit Bal, Rajesh Pratap Singh, Gaurang Shah, Rahul Mishra and Anju Modi, the ivory Sawan and Bhadon Pavilions, and the red sandstone Zafar Mahal made for a dramatic backdrop for the show. Artisan Speak turned a page in India’s history, transcendentally juxtaposing the regal era of yore with the immediate now. The show honoured six Padma Shri and seven Sant Kabir award winning master craftsmen, wherein the Union Minister Of Textiles, Smriti Irani, gave away Special Recognition Awards to the indomitable contributors to India’s textile sector. Craft Revivalist and Textile Conservationist Madhu Jain was recognised for her work with bamboo silk and the President of the Fashion Design Council Of India, Sunil Sethi, was awarded the honour for Promotion Of Handicraft and Textile Design, for his Made In India ideology even before it became fashionable and his relentless pursuit of elevating Indian crafts and the handloom industry in the domestic and foreign markets, working in close proximity with the Textile Ministry over the years. When Irani lauded his efforts during her speech on stage, Sethi turned uncharacteristically bashful for five seconds.

On January 7, Anamika Khanna showed her collection at the Artisan Speak show organised by the Fashion Design Council Of India for the Ministry Of Textiles Government Of India at the legendary Currency Building founded in 1833 in Kolkata. It was a felicitous venue for Khanna’s show. Whilst most heritage buildings in Kolkata, the first seat of power of the British Empire, reflect Gothic styles of architecture, the Currency Building stood out in the city with its Italian style, particularly its Venetian windows. The building went through many hands and years of neglect and demolishment till the Archaeological Survey Of India took over and restored it to its distinct Italian architectural style recently. Archaeologists have found evidence of an underground canal from the building to the river Hooghly to cool freshly minted coins in its original avatar as a currency house.

Artisan Speak in Kolkata was yet another historical step forward for Indian fashion by showing in a protected building, creating awareness for India’s textile industry, the second largest employment sector in the country, after the agricultural industry. After the momentous fashion show, the Currency Building turned into an exhibition space, open to the public, for jute, silk and handloom crafts the following day. “India has seen a growth of 24 percent in the export of jute products in the last five years,” said Smriti Irani, Union Minister Of Textiles, a pivotal voice of Artisan Speak.

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©Rubina A Khan 2019


RUBINA’S RADAR | THE INDIAN RUPEE IS WEAK, BUT DELHI’S LOTUS MAKEUP INDIA FASHION WEEK SS19 AIN’T!

RUBINA’S RADAR

Paris Fashion Week kicked off with a Christian Dior show on September 24 in Bois de Boulogne in Paris. But what’s making more headlines than the French luxury label right now is Italian fashion house, Versace, of the famed Medusa head, with the impending Michael Kors buyout. Dior’s Creative Director, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s centerstage fashion and dance extravaganza left everyone breathless, but not more than her ethereal, bespoke designs for Italian fashion force, Chiara Ferragni’s wedding in Noto, Italy earlier on in September this year who chose Dior over every other fashion house for her special day. That’s had me screaming J’adore since. Rumour also has it that the SS19 collection in Paris was Chiuri’s last one for Dior.

American fashion designer, Michael Kors is getting ready to buy out Versace, headquartered in Milan, next week for approximately $2 billion after buying the designer shoe company, Jimmy Choo for roughly $1.2 billion in 2017.

This fashionable, not to mention consolidatory move of Kors will strengthen his position as an American powerhouse to European giants like Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy (LVMH) that owns 70 houses, with $50 billion in revenues in 2017 and Kering that have dominated the fashion industry with brands like Louis Vuitton and Gucci. Donatella Versace has been running Versace ever since the murder of her brother, Gianni Versace in 1997, the founder of the fashion house.

It’s always been a Paris versus Milan situation for fashion forwards, quite like the Mumbai and Delhi fashion weeks in India, but it’s always fashion that rules the runway regardless of geographical optics. The October Spring Summer 2019 edition of India Fashion Week, presented by the Fashion Design Council of India, takes on a new name – Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week with Lotus Makeup as its title sponsor. LMIFW takes place from October 10 to October 13 2018 at the Jawaharlal Nehru Stadium in New Delhi. “Lotus is a leading make-up and skincare brand and what makes this partnership exciting is that it is a homegrown brand with indigenous offerings, which are rooted in India just like our constant endeavours to celebrate the innate Indian-ness in our design spheres,” says Sunil Sethi, President of the FDCI. LMIFW SS19 will see a Japanese designer showcase his designs, a first, on the Delhi runway and a triumvirate of designers together – Rajesh Pratap Singh, Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna and Ashish N Soni, telling India what’s next on the fashion landscape in a sponsored show by LMIFW’s associate sponsor, Nexa.

Sunil Sethi, President FDCI

International beauty brands like Maybelline and Fiama Di Wills have sponsored India Fashion Week in the past, but this is the first time an authentically Indian beauty brand, Lotus Makeup, is collaborating with the FDCI’s India Fashion Week as its title sponsor. The sponsorship will add a definitive edge to Lotus Makeup’s thriving beauty business, an integral part of the fashion business. Given the crazed obsessions of beauty and fashion worldwide, this is a fiscal win for both. Add natural, sustainable and vegan beauty products that are cruelty-free with zero animal testing to Lotus Makeup’s beauty currency and you’ve got an Indian company that is fashionably on trend.

Abhishek Bachchan’s voluntary breather from acting saw him ironically breathe love and life in Anurag Kashyap’s Manmarziyaan as Robby a couple of Fridays ago. Kashyap is obviously happy with his narrative resonating with the audiences who’ve loved the film. The film is a lighter shade of love in comparison to his previous romantic dramas like Dev D (2009) and Gangs Of Wasseypur (2012) that celebrated dark loving. “This is the lightest shade of love that I can get. I need to keep it real. I can’t see myself making unrealistic films with no connection to the lives we all live. I now conserve my energies more for work than anything else and it seems to be working. Though, finding some semblance of importance in my teen-aged daughter’s life is another thing altogether,” laughs Kashyap over the phone from Strasbourg, France. “I’m delighted with the engaged response to Manmarziyaan and more so for my actors, Abhishek (Bachchan), Vicky (Kaushal) and Taapsee (Pannu) who portrayed them just so.”

So does Manmarziyaan indicate a more loved-up state of films from him, with say Salman Khan playing the lead? “Oh, that’s not going to happen as Salman is upset with me, but of course I would love to work with him,” he says nonchalantly. Whatever for? “Well, I was supposed to direct him in Tere Naam almost 18 years ago and I asked him to grow his chest hair and somehow, that did not go down well with him. We haven’t spoken since. I reckon he’s still mad at me though I am not sure. I’ve never told anyone about this but then again, it’s been a decade and more,” says the filmmaker.

Chest hair, really?

Disclaimer: Any part of the content on the rubinaakhan.com website cannot be reproduced without prior permission and crediting the website and the author.

©Rubina A Khan 2018