RUBINA’S RADAR | LUXURY IS A FEELING

NOVEMBER 7, 2023

Fashion is a luxury, but luxury is not necessarily fashion, simply because luxury is not all materialistic and worldly; it’s spiritualistic too. Luxury is not always what you can buy, but also what you can feel. Silence and quiet in the morning is as much a luxury as buying a jet, sleeping and waking up without fear, speaking your mind, wearing runway couture, choosing to love who you want to, buying a mansion, sharing your private time or going on a bespoke holiday – these are all life’s luxuries that we choose to indulge in of our own volition. A rooftop swim past midnight under the stars at The Dorchester Collection’s first property in the Middle East, The Lana, with the Dubai skyline adding more shimmer to the night, is just the kind of luxury money can buy, and the soul can feel. The Lana opens in Dubai in February 2024 and it is going to be the hottest luxury hotel opening of the year because the Dorchester Collection hotels are always beyond cool.

DUBAI: The Lana is the 10th Dorchester Collection hotel that will open in February 2024 in Dubai where water, land and sky will converge with humans in luxurious, manmade excellence. A waterfront location with definitive modern architecture in the Marasi Drive, The Lana’s infinity-edge, rooftop pool with a bar, has stunning views of the adjacent marina facing the Burj Khalifa and Downtown Dubai. Comprising of 225 guest rooms and suites, with showstopping balconies, you can watch the changing landscape around you from sunrise to dusk. “Inspired by the bold spirit of Dubai, my team and I are thrilled to be opening Dorchester Collection’s first hotel in the Middle East. We look forward to offering you a truly exceptional experience, crafted with the utmost care,” says Richard Alexander, General Manager of The Lana. One cannot think of a London without The Dorchester and 45, Park Lane, Los Angeles without The Beverly Hills and the Bel Air, Paris sans the geranium dotted façade of The Plaza Athenee and Le Meurice, Italy without Hotel Eden Rome and Principe Di Savoia, or the beautiful English countryside without Coworth Park in Ascot. Each one of these beautiful Dorchester Collection hotels is iconic, luxurious and glamourous, shaping the histories of the cities they’re located in, and being a part of history in people’s memories. These hotels have played architectural parts in films and Netflix series and are stars in themselves, such is the indomitable presence of all nine Dorchester Collection hotels in the world of luxury, with The Lana all set to create its own history in the Middle East with a Marhaba Dubai! I think the Dorchester Collection hotels are architectural actors really, representing the past and present of their cities and more importantly, their people.

©The Lana, Dubai

SWEDEN: H&M is a forerunner in the world of fashion collaborations with the late Karl Lagerfeld being their very first partnership in November 2004, followed by Versace, Comme des Garçons, Balmain, Maison Margiela, Stella McCartney and Sabyasachi over the years. H&M is ready to drop its second designer collaboration of the year with Rabanne online and in stores, on November 9th, 2023, the first being with Mugler in May 2023. Paco Rabanne, the fashion label, known only as Rabanne as of 2023, was founded in Paris in 1966 by Spaniard, Paco Rabanne, whose real name was Francisco Rabaneda Cuervo. The 1966 debut show of Paco Rabanne in Paris, with a collection called Manifesto: 12 Unwearable Dresses in Contemporary Materials, made of metal plaques and organic plastic linked with wires, was shown on black and white models, who walked barefoot as he could not afford to buy shoes for them. An original fashion anarchist, the show earned him fame with art collector Peggy Guggenheim buying and wearing his creations. Rabanne was also known for his fragrances – Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, 1 Million and Lady Million that are immensely popular to the day. He was awarded the Legion of Honour by France’s minister of culture, Frederic Mitterrand in November 2010, with Mitterrand highlighting Rabanne’s early work, especially his Manifesto collection during the ceremony. Rabanne was acquired in 1987 by Puig, a Spanish fashion and fragrance company, with Julien Dossena reimagining the textile alternative design language of the maison since 2013 as its creative director. “As a designer, I’ve always been interested in exploring hedonism and empowerment. I was very enthusiastic to work with H&M on a collection that will introduce Rabanne’s avant-garde energy to a wider audience in a democratic way,“ says Dossena of the H&M collection that includes womenswear, menswear, shoes and accessories, and a capsule home décor line. In the 60s, Rabanne’s metal couture was met with disparaging rebuke and today, almost 60 years on, metal couture is a haute step forward in sustainable fashion.

Jared Leto, Damson Idris, Irina Shayk, Julien Dossena, Creative Director of Paco Rabanne,
Elle Fanning and H&M Creative Director Ann-Sofie Johansson.

WORLD: The ongoing strife between Israel and Palestine for the siege of Gaza marks a month today, with horrific loss and devastation all around in both countries since October 7th. Christian Dior seems to have replaced Palestinian-Dutch model, Bella Hadid with May Tager, an Israeli model, in their new holiday beauty campaign. There is no official statement from Dior on the replacement, if that holds true, or if Tager is another beauty ambassador alongside Hadid and many more. Hadid, a beauty ambassador for Dior since 2016, has never shied away from vocalizing her thoughts on Palestine over the years. She is very aware and cognizant that her advocacy for Palestine could jeopardize her modelling career, but she has stood firm in her stance and beliefs to honour her roots. Hadid’s father, Mohammed Hadid, an American real estate developer born in Nazareth, Palestine, was married to her mother, Yolanda van den Herik, a Dutch model and television personality, born in Papendrecht, Netherlands, from 1994 to 2000.

Bella Hadid

The worldwide ramifications of the war between Israel and Palestine remain to be seen in the days and months to come, with over 10,000 people killed since October 7th, 2023, according to the Palestinian Ministry of Health in Ramallah. As the war rages on and the world watches history being written, it is humanity that is being written off the Earth rather tragically.

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©Rubina A Khan 2023

RUBINA’S RADAR | FROM RED SOLED LOUBOUTINS IN NEW YORK TO THE CANNES RED CARPET IN THE FRENCH RIVIERA

RUBINA’S RADAR 

Fashion’s boldest bodies and brains know how to work the fiery haute month of May, especially on the French Riviera. The 70th annual Cannes Film Festival at Palais des Festivals in Cannes, France is on fire, the summer temperatures notwithstanding, with beautiful and glamorous women walking the red carpet in breathtaking couture and bespoke jewels at the world’s biggest playground for photo-ops. Cannes is truly all about women, with men in tuxes running behind them, holding up their dresses and patting and settling them down to picture perfection. And what’s the most photographed fashion parade in the world without a wardrobe malfunction, inadvertent or otherwise? Day one saw Bella Hadid in a champagne Alexandre Vauthier gown with an underwear flash that was blinding. Eating an icecream cone in the gown after her red carpet strut, cemented Hadid’s nonchalance at the gaffe, that seemed more designed, than accidental. The red silk “barely there” gown, by Vauthier again, that she carried off so elegantly on the red carpet last year, clung on to her like second skin, with no slip up. That’s the reason Hadid stole the show primarily because nothing happened to the dress that everyone thought, or was hoping rather, would fall off her, and it pushed the fledgling model’s career forward the way it was orchestrated to. Just like this year’s “malfunction”.

Bollywood’s most poised actor, Deepika Padukone made an absolutely stunning debut at Cannes this year as part of L’oreal’s international glam girl squad. On opening gala night, Padukone looked fresh and completely at ease as she worked the red carpet statuesquely in a jewel-toned Marchesa gown with a seductive glimpse of her derrière and legs through the sheer of the fabric, for the screening of Ismael’s Ghosts (Les Fantomes d’Ismael). The following day, she wore a dark green Brandon Maxwell one-shoulder gown with a thigh-high slit for Loveless (Nelyubov) and Wonderstruck. With bold green eye makeup, green velvet heels, and her hair in an updo, it was impossible not to love her chic style, despite being head-to-toe in one solid colour.

Cannes’ most beautiful habit for the last fifteen years, Aishwarya Rai Bachchan seems to have gotten her fashion game on this time around. She pleased everyone, well almost, as she walked the red carpet in an icy blue Michael Cinco ball gown from his Impalpable Dream of Versailles collection, looking effortlessly flawless! But interestingly, about two weeks ago, Cinco, a Dubai based designer with an atelier in the Dubai Design District, was in fittings with the Swarovski heiress and singer, Victoria Swarovski for the same dress in the exact same colour, so it wasn’t exactly a couture debut on the Bollywood star. Though, Bachchan took Cinco’s creation from mere princess level to Disney queen, if there ever was one in the fairytale kingdom of dreams. Her daughter Aaradhya must have loved seeing her looking like a beautiful Elsa in the ball gown. Bachchan was definitely in a royal state of mind given her wardrobe choices thereafter, with her engine red Ralph & Russo gown on day four of the fest. It was just another red dress with frills and stones, with a clumsy fit on the sides, sans any custom couture attributes, aside from the famous face wearing it.

While in New York, Fern Mallis the award-winning creator and organiser of New York Fashion Week and now a Director of the Fashion Institute of Technology Foundation, interviewed Paris based shoe designer, Christian Louboutin. The conversation took place at the prestigious 92nd Street Y on Wednesday, May 17th, for her Fashion Icons with Fern Mallis ticketed series. Needless to add, it was a sold out event that was live streamed as it always is, for those who want to listen in. This conversation will undoubtedly find its place in Mallis’ second edition of her first book, Fashion Lives: Fashion Icons with Fern Mallis, published by Rizzoli in April 2015. It was a marvellous interaction between Mallis and the shoes designer of Egyptian and Lebanese descent, wherein he talked about his soul, and his famous red soles.

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Christian Louboutin and Fern Mallis | Photo: Michael Priest Photography

Expelled from school at age 16, Louboutin went to work as an intern at the famed Parisian cabaret Folies Bergère and did odd jobs for the dancers, but the one that fulfilled his dream was making shoes for them, he told Mallis. “I was all about shoes; I was not about fashion. I had cinema and music but not fashion. When I first started I wanted to design shoes for showgirls. But it was a very good way to learn about shoes because for showgirls, they’re very important. They have very little costumes in general, so shoes are a strength, a weapon, a posture,” he said. He was curious why all the dancers ate veal carpaccio, and he was told by them, “You’re so stupid. We’re not eating it. We’re putting it in the shoes,” rolling it up for cushioning, explained Louboutin.

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Christian Louboutin and Fern Mallis | Photo: Michael Priest Photography

At 18, an interview at Christian Dior led him to an internship with Charles Jourdan in the early 80s, wherein he learnt about the business of shoes, followed by design stints at Yves St Laurent, Chanel and Maud Frizon. Along with two of his friends, he opened the first store in Paris in October 1991, with $150,000, including the price of the lease. Louboutin found the inspiration for his trademark red soles in 1993 in red nail paint. The inspiration he describes as “a courtesan living out her life in a circus” turned his surrealistically beautiful shoes into an international success story. Known for his sky-high heels, he thinks flat shoes can be sexy, as proven by the legendary French actress Brigitte Bardot. He went on to tell Mallis that his “Love” flats were created after he saw a photo of Prince Charles staring at Princess Diana’s size 42 shoes.

Today Louboutin also has his own beauty line of nail polishes and lipsticks. “You have to give back to Caesar what belongs to Caesar. The red sole, which is my trademark and a sign of my ambition, started with the nail polish. It’s nice to remember in your flesh exactly where you started,” he said.

Disclaimer: Any part of the content on the rubinaakhan.com website cannot be reproduced without prior permission and crediting the website and the author.

©Rubina A Khan 2017